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Being the first in Australia to turn the average aquarium shop into a specialty gallery-style aquarium display that popularises a higher standard of fish care, coral husbandry and aquatic gardening it came to our attention that more of same is called for. Here in our Wangara premises a proven prototype has flourished into a concept to uniquely commodify excellence and it’s myriad of pleasures into an easily and pleasurany run alternative to the common fish shop, not dissimilar to the experience at say, a fashionable watch or jewellery store. To those who are passionate about the beauty of aquatic life we will eagerly impart the nuts-n-bolts of how to establish your own Gallery and join in a revolution at the vanguard of creativity.

After four years of running the Wangara store as a franchise model and intensive franchise system training Graeme and Philip now confidently believe the possibilities of where this adventure can lead are coming to fruition (school and community involvement, more in depth educational presentations etc.).

An Aquarium Gallery franchisee will be safe in the knowledge that our combined 45 years of experience in aquarium retail / wholesale provides a model built upon a foundation of absolute precision supported by Philips distinct, systemised interdigitated brand identity. Our vision allows an Aquarium Gallery to run efficiently and leave a bit of space in the working day to appreciate the pure essence of excellence. We are looking for committed aquatic gardeners, fish lovers and reef enthusiasts who would love to go—the-limit in a dignified work environment that is simply a great place to work!

Aquarium Gallery is proud to be a member of the Franchise Council of Australia. This ensures that both the franchisee and franchisor are mutually secure. We provide efficient training for staff and management with continued in—store support. Together with regular communications and meetings this ensures you have on-going and up to date management skills, product knowledge in short the know-how to help succeed incorporated into a ready-to—go business. For Franchise opportunities contact Ryan Willsher: (08) 9468 5130 OR email:

>>>Aquarium plant happy = Algae unhappy. >>> Bacteria happy = Algae unhappy.

Facts >>> Algae can never be completely eliminated. As long as there are water and light in the same place algae will exploit the conditions. Solutions >>> Establish bacterial balance. Accept that plants and their lesser cousins can co-exist, the latter being suppressed by the former. Manually remove minor instances such as the green film on glass and tufts here and there on finer leaved plants. Keep feeding to a minimum (do not feed fish for your own entertainmentl). Perform partial regular water changes (without fail!). A densely planted garden (with ideal water chemistry and water-quality) will result in sufficiently suppressed algae.

Algae are classed as plants although some are actually negative bacteria such as Cyano bacterium (let us know if you suspect such an outbreak). Algae are always slightly present in aquaria. Outbreaks occur.only under conditions favourable to their proliferation. Fortunately these conditions are not the same as those benefiting fishes. Algae growth will be minimal so long as one properly equips and then maintains conditions conducive to fish and plant wellbeing. In response to an algae bloom in a seemingly adequate system one must make an honest evaluation: are equipment and maintenance in fact optimal? Is the nutrient composition to the benefit of plants over algae (thus advantaging plant growth and inhibiting algae)? Nutrients favoured by algae are produced in the aquarium- resulting from poor maintenance and possibly introduced through poor quality replacement water. Of course plants also absorb waste bi-products but when they’re given the advantage (more effective nutrients) they will dominate.




Trace elements





Like plants, algae will respond to the presence of light and nutrients. Imagine an unfiltered, illuminated tank; into the water is placed some fish food (decaying organics). In the absence of healthy thick plant growth algae will soon appear.

Note >>>A key difference between the two is algae flourishes in still water whereas plants thrive in vigorous water circulation.

One might assume a leaflet on aquarium lighting would primarily address reef aquaria but only the most recent beginner in that pursuit requires reminding that coral are uncompromising in their considerable lighting requirements. No, it is usually the freshwater gardener who needs reminding of lighting essentials and of the absdolute photosynthetic nature of the primary life form of an aquatic gar en.

There’s good news by the way- the wheel is not often reinvented as dramatically as LED lighting has innovated this area of aquatics. Firstly the menu of colours now available is an exciting new introduction that might not have been anticipated a brief few years ago. An universal concern with bulb / fluorescent lighting is that they contribute nonessential heat but in addition to it's many benefits LED Lighting does not overheat the aquarium. Plus manufacturing costs have come down and running costs even more so which means the reasoning once used to omit lighting no longer applies.

LED Lighting with it's many options and benefits truly has improved aquarium keeping in leaps-n-bounds. There are spectrums that intensify the natural colours of even the most subtly patterned fishes so even if one is not keeping light dependant plants and animals such units in conjunction with wave action add that sunlit-shimmer-effect caused by refraction, evocative of a breezy afternoon slant of sun hitting the crystal clear surface of water hi-lighting the submerged scape. This is not just an aesthetic; research indicates that fishes benefit from a daylight/moonlight cycle which was once considered to be useful specifically to reef aquaria for which the colour enhancing properties of LED are particularly exciting. One might assume coral which are already vibrantly colourful do not need enhancement until one sees ones coral exquisitely lit by a programable unit offering dazzling colour blending.

While a mono-culture of basic aquatic plants (short-term, frequently requiring replacement) can be maintained without a carbon dioxide delivery system, if one desires a thriving, lush aquatic garden, one that is even productive (from which plants can be harvested) then C02 “injection” is a necessity.

Humans eat to harness nutrients. We can no more survive without food than plants can survive without C02. This is the process called photosynthesis - when plants harness C02 to convert light into their primary food source: carbohydrates. In the environment (an open system) this is natural law. In aquaria (a closed system) we must mechanically craft the necessary conditions.

FAQ >>> Why isn’t C02 present in aquarium water the same way it is in rivers and lakes? There are trace amounts in aquariums but due to the concentrated number of aquatic plants the system is unable to provide a saturation level of C02. This is required for lush growth, without which plants are starved (frail and brittle) and short lived.

PLUS >>> Another benefit of C02-injection is that a byproduct of photosynthes is oxygen which contributes to the fish-friendly water clarity seen in well planted aquaria referred to not as simply a fish tank but as an Aquatic Garden.

NOTE >>> The process of photosynthesis also requires a specific lighting threshold. The light we supply must reach a specific point of intensity for successful photosynthesis. For this reason please refer to the leaflet concerning Aquarium Appropriate Lighting.

While much of the world adjusts to act sustainably here at Aquarium Gallery we recognise that the thrill of aquarium keeping is often oriented toward families, specifically children, who have as they say more skin in the game. This makes us even more cognisant of the need for responsible practices such as Aquarium Gallery branded consumable filter media —Fi|tex- packed in recyclable glass jars; shoppers are asked to return these for reuse while taking advantage of a $2 credit.

Sustainability considerations must include reef aquaria. Top of the list is a pro-active environmental consideration; namely, that we no longer offer "Live Rock" chiseled from off the reef and we whole heartedly encourage eschewing it’s use. An excellent alternative is manufactured reef—rock the use of which allows one to set up a marine aquarium without the salty sandy mess from awkwardly heavy boxes of collected rock. Even better (water can be mopped up) is that the aquarium is protected from pests associated with “live rock” such as mantis shrimp, crabs and aptasia anemone infestations to name a few. Dry, man-made Reef Rock provides the same type of surface area and is seeded (by the introduction of coral) with the same beneficial bacteria introduced by "live rock". Thus dry rock takes on a life of it’s own and gives reef keepers endless satisfaction as the genesis from inert to “live” occurs (albeit gradually) right before their eyes!

FAQ >>> Why sometimes are coral and anemones seemingly so expensive?

A counter question might be: “How much does one think they should cost?” Or “Is not cost a relative term?" How much should a living piece of the earth cost?

At great expense our coral and anemones are sourced from legal collectors but also increasingly (we are proud to say) from coral farms. Cultured coral are always more expensive as costs include intensive labour. Please bear in mind when making your selection that farmed coral, in relative terms, are totally environmentally friendly.

For more information on how we can become caretakers of the Earth see our Facebook page re: MicroBead pollution.

A Fish tank is just that, a tank of fish scaped with inert rock, driftwood or artificial coral. Most common are Goldfish tanks or a collection of mixed compatible tropical fishes. Then there’s a beloved pair of Oscars or a striking shoal of rare Tanganyikan Cichlids, a single species massed in a fascinating community of distinct relationships only their fish keeper recognise. And although there lives microscopically crucial bacteria in the gravel, on rocks and in the filter such a tank is not setup as a mini-eco system as are an intricate aquatic garden or a living reef; and there is a purpose to knowing the distinction.

In the absence of, for example, the enhanced life support supplied by oxygen producing aquatic plants a Fish Tank relies solely on external hardware (filtration and circulation pumps) for life support and can surrvB/e without lighting other than as a means to better view the in a itants.

An Aquarium is a different kettle of fish. Unlike fish keepers, aquarists seek to emulate nature, create an eco system with abundant growth (be it plants or coral), a productive system, a harmonious balance of light, substrate, living rock, nutrients, bacteria, specific water chemistry, water circulation and THEN the fish. One does not make sense without all the others. When these combine aquaria rises to the level of an art form.

In a Fish Tank there is a single component. Within an Aquarium there is total team work. Certainly the keeper of a Fish Tank derives immense pleasure from their aquatic-companion-pets. For example when humans arrive home the way an Oscar Fish will swim joyfully, frantically to the end of the tank where they customarily hand feed nibbling from ones fingers. But Aquariums are different, perhaps more enriching, in that they are educational in the beauty of their sustainability. It could be said that a Fish Tank is easier, cost reduced and in some cases perhaps a better choice such as in waiting rooms of child clinics. This is because large fishes may be less skittish, even outright friendly and therefore can more affectiver attract and hold a Ehiléjjl'sdattention (and for the adult whose inner child remains Kindled).

This depends on the marine-life one desires to keep. A fish only aquarium without “living decor” is pretty straight forward. There are no lighting complexities and water chemistry maintenance is almost entirely a matter of staying regular with a water change routine which is no less important for a freshwater counterpart.

When one chooses living reef, yes, there are differences; though again the freshwater equivalent (a diversely planted tank) has in common many of the lighting and supplement requirements. One could say whereas plants are fertilised coral are fed, that these actions are similar and it could be argued that growing-out fragged coral is almost easier than culturing plants. This may have not been considered the case even a mere 20 years ago when keeping reef aquaria at home was said to be a privilege reserved for experts. However with advances in technology (easier, more affordable equipment) in tandem with a far more thorough understanding of water chemistry, reef keeping has progressed to the point that it is pretty nearly as common as cichlid keeping (once considered a less expensive, less risky alternative to marine aquaria).

A 5 Star Formula For Success >>>

1 >>> Choose top-notch equipment; cutting corners initially sets one up for failure ultimately increasing costs and decreasing rewards.

2 >>> In regards reef keeping take particular care with lighting.

3 >>> Use quality saltwater. This can be harvested seawater or a salt mix (which may in fact be more pure and consistent).

4 >>> Follow a correct maintenance routine the primary functions being a regular partial water change and filter pad replacement (an easy economical insurance plan).

5 >>>Do not over populate and/or over feed, the two most common causes of problematic aquaria. Following these key rules will instil confidence in the beginner marine hobbyist.

1 >>> Over feeding. Fish don’t "get fed" in the wild, they must scavenge or hunt thus they have good days and lean clays. Fish can appear to be hungry almost always at all times. The hobbyist must accept this state of “alertness” as a sign of optimum health and resist the impulse to overfeed (which can lead to poor health). Minimising Leeding, yes even skipping the odd day, is one key to successful fish keeping.

2 >>> Commitment to a mandatory water change schedule. A common misnomer is that topping-off an aquarium after evaporation acts as maintenance. This has particularly menacing ramifications regards a marine aquarium where the dissolved salts will be greatly imbalanced but all aquaria requires regular partial water removal and replacement. Here at Aquarium Gallery we make this as convenient as possible with “swap-n-go" 15 litre water containers (both reef and reverse osmosis fresh).

2 >>> Sudden temperature change. This may occur during winter when the temperature of replacement water might be extreme; it is then advisable to reduce the amount of water changed by 50% and perform the function twice as often. NOTE: Temperature shifting also occurs when introducing new fish, thus acclimatisation is critical: Freshwater: float all bags still closed 5-10 minute /open, roll over plastic / float opened bags adding tank water 2-3 times / feed exiting fish- to distract/ introduce newcomers. Saltwater: we suggest “the drip-method”, please see staff for details.

3 >>> Inappropriate mixture of fish varieties. Certain varieties of fish simply do not get along. Two examples...Freshwater: most Barbs and some Tetras are fin-nippers / Saltwater: keeping fish with seahorses; the latter miss-out on food (not quick enough during feedings). Please feel free to discuss such topics with our staff and if possible know the latin names of the fishes already in your aquarium(s) as common names are often incorrect.

Some of the services we offer include, initial set up, aquascaping, reefscaping, consultation, renovation, repair. We offer on-site servicing for aquariums both fresh and marine. We also offer pond installation and maintenance

>>>Availab|e Monday-Friday 8 am to 6 pm within Perth Metro area. Bookings are essential.

>>>Ca|| out Fee $150 Every hour after that $110 Discounts apply for regular servicing. Please put your request in writing to info@aquariumga|

>>>Aquarium Maintenance Call out after hours/Emergency After hours emergency call out $180 Every additional hour $120 After hours travel cost $100 per hour on call out